12. TrooRa The San Francisco Issue ‘21

For example, he explained that when tourists stay at a Waikiki resort for vacation, their experience is limiting their idea of what Hawaii is. That impression is very different from that of the locals who work and live there. The realities between these two experiences are vastly different. To Chef Kapur, if someone visiting is truly interested in the local culture, they should take a moment to connect with those who live on the islands; attempt to understand their views and taste their day-to-day meals. Try not to take things at face value since so many traditions have been exploited by marketing to “get the clicks and (entice tourists to) do this and buy that.” Moreover, the Hawaiian identity was constantly being altered and shaped by those who influenced it throughout history. Starting with Polynesians who discovered Hawaii, onwards to

the British missionaries, then the Americans, and finally the various ethnic groups that put down their roots on the island. There is a distinction between the traditional, historical Hawaiian food and what is called “local food.” The former refers to the original Polynesian traditions that were mostly passed down orally and are very difficult to recover. For traditional fare, the Hawaiian Taro is one of the main culinary pillars. The leaves are used in stews, as well as for wrapping fish, chicken, and beef or pork Lau-laus that are cooked in an underground oven. The heart of the root is pureed and fermented to make Poi, a Hawaiian dietary staple. And fresh fish, of course, plays an important part as well.

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