A s a cookbook writer, educator, and Nigerian food and culture ambassador, Houston native Chef Kavachi Ukegbu juggles multiple plates. Even as we started the interview, she was on the run managing multiple projects. A third-generation food and beverage professional, she was the second oldest of six sisters. Her mother Margaret Jason opened Safari, one of the first Nigerian restaurants in Houston. Growing up in the popular restaurant meant that she was always exposed to Nigerian culture. Though Houston has always had a diverse culinary landscape with a multitude of flavors from around the globe, Nigerian cuisine was not well known in the 1980s and 1990s. Despite having a thriving Nigerian community, considered the biggest in the United States, Nigerian food was still a mystery to most people in the city.
The widespread ignorance to the joys of Nigerian food made an indelible mark on Chef Kavachi. During her school’s International Day, the students were asked to bring in a dish from any country. Being a proud Nigerian, she begged and pestered her mom to cook a traditional red stew for the event. Despite her enthusiasm, her teacher decided not to serve the food simply because she was unfamiliar with it. Indeed, it was through moments of adversity, such as that childhood incident, that Chef Kavachi realized the importance of cultural exchange and dialogue. “I'm so happy that this generation we're in, there're so many resources. So many opportunities for someone to learn if they want to learn,” Chef Kavachi reflects on the difference between those days and now. “Especially in Houston, we have a lot of people that come here from all around, and are so open to trying different foods if you just tell them, ‘cause you don’t know what you don’t know. But what you do know is ‘it smells good, and I’m hungry!’” With a passion for sharing her culinary heritage, Chef Kavachi embarked on a journey to bridge cultures through food, culminating in the creation of the Art of Fufu cookbook. It was a long and difficult process, with multiple trips to Nigeria to obtain the proper recipes, engaging stories, and colorful photos for publication. This innovative endeavor not only celebrates the diversity of Nigerian cuisine but also serves as a conduit for preserving and passing down traditions to future generations. And what exactly defines Nigerian cuisine? At its core lies the beloved staple dish, fufu. "Fufu is more than just a meal; it's a way of life," Chef Kavachi explains. Made from a variety of gluten- free ingredients like yams, cassava, or rice, fufu embodies the essence of
WRITTEN BY CARY WONG WHAT YOU KNOW AB O U T F U F U Chef Kavachi Ukegbu and the Growth of Nigerian Food and Culture
PHOTOGRAPHED BY @HIKAVACHI , @ARTOFUFU , @GRUBCAM
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