Humble in stature, ambitious by nature, located in a former fisherman’s cottage and seating only 24 diners, Kobus van der Merwe’s highly local, forage-forward menu at Wolfgat punches well above its weight.
The tide is low and the harvest is a good one—a bushel of klipkombers will keep Kobus supplied for up to a week. “It’s a wonderful resource,” he explains. “It’s free, it’s sustainable—as long as we don’t take too much—and it’s readily available.”
The menu at Wolfgat
changes seasonally; for this autumnal menu, Kobus chose as his theme local comfort food. Here he is seen preparing smoked snoek (a revered South African fish) for the menu.
A small eatery, yes. But these days, since the restaurant Wolfgat and its soft- spoken chef Kobus van der Merwe were crowned ‘Restaurant of the Year’ and ‘Best off-map destination’ at the World Restaurant Awards in February, they have been pulled firmly onto the world stage and the radar of discerning food lovers across the globe. Food lovers are now booking months in advance for Wolfgat’s forage-forward, proudly West Coast tasting menu. For Kobus, much though he appreciates the recognition, the resulting attention has been slightly alarming. “We had no idea beforehand what a big deal it was,” he exclaims. “We were up against some really big names! I mean we’re kind of ‘barefoot in the kitchen here.’ We don’t even have tablecloths. Our service is very casual.” Casual and rustic Wolfgat may be, it is also ambitious and carefully considered. Located in one of the white fishing cottages traditional of this area, it seats a maximum of 24 guests at six tables. The walls are plastered white, as is the custom here. The roof is corrugated iron, the green wooden front door is beautifully (naturally) weathered. The kitchen is small, though well-fitted, the furniture a striking mix of wood and steel. Every detail testifies to the fact that Wolfgat is a product of its coastal location—a basket of seashells, a collection of small found animal skulls, and rows and rows of Kobus’ botanical infusions, the result of his forages and an integral part of the menu.
102
Powered by FlippingBook